Root vegetables bountiful, tasty this time of year

Fall is here (at last), which means that root vegetables -- which are particularly well-suited to the more substantial dishes of autumn -- are plentiful in local markets.

But first: What are root vegetables? The Oxford Dictionaries define them as "the fleshy enlarged root of a plant used as a vegetable, e.g., a carrot, rutabaga or beet."

Chefs, however, sometimes use looser definitions.

"Generally speaking, the part that you eat grows underground," noted Philip Bonanno, executive chef of The Orleans, who also applies the term to bulbs and plants with modified stems in addition to what he calls "true root."

Root vegetables tend to be less familiar than other types of vegetables.

"I definitely look forward to the fall and using root vegetables," said Mark LoRusso, executive chef of Botero at Encore. "I find it more challenging. Asparagus or tomatoes or corn in the summer is kind of an easy sell. When you cook a root vegetable, like a parsnip, maybe not as many people are familiar with parsnips."

That's something that Kathryn O'Donnell, a registered dietitian at University Medical Center, sees on a regular basis.

"I think a lot of people, when you say, 'Eat more vegetables,' they say, 'I eat a lot of broccoli,' but they forget there are a lot of vegetables," she said. "And root vegetables are definitely good for you -- a lot of fiber, minerals and vitamins."

For instance, orange vegetables, such as carrots and yams, are high in vitamin A, she noted.

When it comes to parsnips in particular, it seems a lot of people don't know what they're missing.

"I like parsnips a lot," LoRusso said. "I love parsnip puree with lobster."

"Replace some of the starches in your life with a root vegetable," said Robyn Lew, a registered dietitian and chef. "Instead of serving pasta or rice, serve parsnip puree or sweet-potato puree. You're still getting carbohydrates, but you're getting complex carbohydrates, and in addition, you're getting some fiber and vitamins and minerals."

If you're determined to serve potatoes, she said, mix them with parsnips or carrots for extra flavor.

"Sometimes you can trick people and they don't even know this is celery root," Lew said. "Just serve them like you would mashed potatoes."

Roasting is another good way to use root vegetables; Lew said to peel, cube and toss them with olive oil and salt and pepper and roast at 450 to 475 degrees until they're browned.

"You don't even need to do anything to them," she said. "Just roast them."

LoRusso said he's currently serving salmon with celery-root puree and sauteed celery-root batons with an apple reduction and mushrooms and added that celery root and apples have a particular affinity. He also likes to use root vegetables -- including sunchokes -- in soups and with braised meats.

"Root vegetables will hold up better when you braise an item," he said. "There's more texture, and the vegetable itself holds its shape a lot more."

"You're going to see them in a lot of stews, a lot of soups," Bonanno said.

He pointed out that mirepoix, a blend of carrots, onions and celery, is the foundation for many dishes.

"Too many people are using bases because it saves time and bones aren't as cheap as they used to be," he said. "The vegetables add body. It's just a richer, full-bodied taste rather than a sodium taste. Whether you're making sauces or stews, you're going to be using these stocks."

Bonanno pointed out that many root vegetables, such as horseradish and ginger, are used as seasonings.

"The great things about garlic and ginger, they're both anti-bacterial and anti-viral, anti-fungal foods," O'Donnell said. "That's why a lot of people, when they're sick, eat garlic and drink ginger tea."

Experimentation, sources said, is a good way to expand your vegetable horizons.

"There are some we don't necessarily think of when we think of root vegetables," O'Donnell said. "Jicama has a lot of vitamin C and it's really sweet and crunchy.

"Also, turnips. Until you have a turnip, you don't realize how sweet and delicious they can be."

ROASTED ROOT VEGETABLES WITH ROSEMARY

Nonstick vegetable oil spray

1 pound red-skinned potatoes, unpeeled, scrubbed, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 pound celery root (celeriac), peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 pound rutabagas, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 pound carrots, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 pound parsnips, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 onions, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 leeks (white and pale green parts only), cut into 1-inch-thick rounds

2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

½ cup olive oil

10 garlic cloves, peeled

Position one rack in bottom third of oven and one rack in center of oven and preheat to 400 degrees. Spray two heavy large baking sheets with nonstick spray. Combine all remaining ingredients except garlic in very large bowl; toss to coat. Season generously with salt and pepper. Divide vegetable mixture between prepared sheets. Place one sheet on each oven rack. Roast 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Reverse positions of baking sheets. Add 5 garlic cloves to each baking sheet.

Continue to roast until all vegetables are tender and brown in spots, stirring and turning vegetables occasionally, about 45 minutes longer. (Dish can be prepared 4 hours ahead. Let stand on baking sheets at room temperature. Rewarm in 450-degree oven until heated through, about 15 minutes.)

Transfer roasted vegetables to large bowl and serve.

Serves 8.

-- Recipe from Bon Appetit magazine

KOHLRABI, RUTABAGA AND TURNIPS

1 pound kohlrabi, peeled and cubed

1 pound rutabaga, peeled and cubed

½ pound white turnips, peeled and diced

2 cups beef stock

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Put the vegetables and the beef stock in a 3-quart saucepan, cover and cook about 25 minutes over medium heat until tender. Check for seasoning and add salt and pepper as needed.

Serves 6.

-- Recipe from "Betty Groff's Country Goodness Cookbook"

RAW BEET AND BOILED POTATO SALAD

1 pound potatoes

½ pound fresh beets (about 3 small), washed and peeled

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

½ cup mayonnaise

½ cup chopped parsley (optional)

Lettuce leaves

Cut the potatoes into quarters, place them in a large pot and cover them with water. Bring them to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and cook until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain the potatoes, and when they are cool enough to handle, skin them and cut into 1-inch cubes.

While the potatoes are cooling, cut the beets into chunks and pulse them in a food processor until shredded. Sprinkle them with the lime juice.

Place the potatoes in a salad bowl. Sprinkle them with the salt and pepper and toss them gently with the mayonnaise.

Add the beets with the lime juice and toss gently. Cover the salad with plastic wrap and refrigerate it for at least 4 hours.

Sprinkle the salad with parsley and serve it, chilled, on lettuce leaves.

Serves 4 to 6.

-- Recipe from "A Taste of Old Cuba" by Maria Josefa Lluria de O'Higgins

CREAMY MASHED POTATOES AND PARSNIPS

4 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

1 pound parsnips, peeled and cut into chunks

1 cup milk, hot

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

Freshly ground white pepper

Salt and pepper, to taste

Place potatoes and parsnips in a large pot, cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until tender, 20 to 25 minutes, or until potatoes are very tender. Drain well, return to pot, add milk and butter and mash until almost smooth (or leave slightly chunky, if you prefer). Season with salt and pepper and serve.

Optional: Stir in a handful of chopped green onions or grated cheddar cheese before serving, if you like.

Serves 10.

-- Recipe from Whole Foods Market

CELERY ROOT REMOULADE

¼ cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons creme fraiche or sour cream

2 cornichons (sour gherkins), minced, or 1 tablespoon minced dill pickle

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley leaves

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

½ teaspoon drained bottled capers, minced

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

Pinch of dried tarragon, crumbled

Salt and pepper, to taste

2 small celery roots (about 1¼ pound total), peeled and cut into matchstick pieces or coarsely shredded

In a small bowl, stir together mayonnaise, creme fraiche, cornichons, parsley, lemon juice, capers, mustard, tarragon, and salt and pepper, to taste, until well-combined.

In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook celery root 2 minutes. Drain celery root in a sieve and refresh under cold water. Dry celery root completely. Add celery root to sauce and stir together. Chill salad until ready to serve.

Serves 2.

-- Recipe from Gourmet magazine

Contact reporter Heidi Knapp Rinella at hrinella@review journal.com or 702-383-0474.