Bravo offers proof that shopping-mall dining has evolved

So there we were, sitting outdoors on a balmy evening, gazing at a row of young trees (mesquites, maybe?) with a water wall beyond, enjoying the aromas of Italian cooking and listening to the soft tinkle of glassware within.

It was hard to believe we were in a chain restaurant at a shopping mall.

The restaurant in question was Bravo! Cucina Italiana — they of the gratuitous exclamation mark — at the Galleria at Sunset mall in Henderson, and as I wrote a few weeks ago, mall dining certainly has changed.

Chain restaurants, too, at least to a point. Bravo is a slightly downscale (slightly more casual, slightly less expensive) sister of the Brio Tuscan Grille chain, and they have much in common. That would include the decor; while Bravo isn't quite as elaborate as Brio, its seating is similarly situated, mostly rows of large booths, with lamp lighting on the dividing wall. And it extends to the menu as well; we've always felt that Brio has mostly evaded the something-for-everyone-in-any-location feel that characterizes most chains, and so does Bravo. Yes, there's eggplant Parmesan, but it's dressed up with herb linguine. Yes, there's lasagna, but it's made with both Bolognese and Alfredo sauces.

We started with the meatballs and polenta ($9.99), which seemed straightforward enough, and indeed it was. But we were impressed by the execution. The three large meatballs were a blend of beef and pork, seasoned effectively and quite moist; they even passed muster with the Meatball Snob across the table, which is a tough sell. But the polenta was an absolute triumph, comfort-food creamy, with some drizzles of marinara sauce for flavor accents.

Balsamic-glazed chicken ($19.99) was equally laudable. We were drawn to this one mainly by the promised bed of orzo and farro, and as we expected, the toothy texture of the former and nutty chewiness of the latter were an excellent combination, especially as they are similarly sized. The chicken was rich with the characteristic sweet/sour nature of balsamic vinegar and exceptionally moist, and the dish was further enhanced with Mediterranean vegetables and feta cheese and served with grilled asparagus.

Sausage sacchetti ($16.99) was impossibly delicate little pasta pouches, filled with cheese and served with sauteed slices of a firm, thick Italian sausage, plus pancetta and tomatoes and enough crushed red pepper to add a decent kick. It was a refreshing contrast to all the bland pasta dishes out there.

Service throughout was pretty good. Our server was, as she told us, in training and seemed a little frazzled, but the server training her was far more steady and, it seemed to us, more typical of the restaurant's employees.

As I said a few weeks ago, we've watched shopping-mall dining move from cafeteria to fern bar to all-encompassing-with-no-identity. But with restaurants like Bravo, it has finally evolved.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Email Heidi Knapp Rinella at Hrinella@reviewjournal.com. Find more of her stories at www.reviewjournal.com and follow @HKRinella on Twitter.