The Gown Guessing Game

The Oscars can't hold a candle to this fashion moment. Chelsea Clinton's wedding dress can't breathe the same air as this bridal history-maker. And, Michelle Obama's one-shouldered Jason Wu decision can't touch the designer anointment the world will witness Friday morning.

The gown Kate Middleton wears to marry Prince William will step across our memories and leave a permanent fashion footprint. Likewise, the life and career of the designer behind it will forever be divided into two parts: pre-royal wedding and post-royal wedding.

The anticipation is enough to make Christian Siriano describe his predictions of the gown using every word in his fashion vernacular -- except fierce. The most recognizable "Project Runway" alumnist guesses the princess-to-be will wear a form-fitting gown in duchess satin or satin organza. Then again, he says, she could go romantic and ethereal. Whichever direction she takes it, he has no idea how she's managed to keep it secret.

"I have people in my office all day," says the New York-based designer who recently launched two lines for Spiegel. "They must be keeping it in a glass box in a backroom where no one is allowed."

A few of the designers who have come into speculation include Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney and Sophie Cranston. All of them are British and all of them -- except one -- are high-fashion, high-profile designers. The majority of the fashion industry have put their money on the exception, Cranston.

She designs the Libelula line, a personal favorite of Middleton's. According to Siriano, McQueen and Westwood are too edgy for her play-it-safe style. McCartney's understated yet feminine aesthetic would make more sense, but Middleton doesn't have a reputation for wearing garments with four-digit price tags. Plus, having a designer with whom a relationship already has been established create her wedding gown adds a personal touch. All indicators point to Cranston.

Local fashion stylist Christie Moeller doubts a Cranston gown would be an intentional effort to shine a global spotlight on a lesser-known designer the way Michelle Obama has done. "I believe she'll go with what she likes," she says. "Whether no one knows (the designer) or it's a huge name brand."

Moeller was one of 750 million people who tuned in to watch Lady Diana become Her Royal Highness The Princess of Wales 30 years ago. She was just 11 years old at the time, but remembers being allowed to stay up late for the occasion. Moeller credits the storybook, "magical" component of a royal wedding for having fifth-graders in the United States holding their breath for the big moment in England.

But, just how big will the moment be this time around? Princess Diana distinguished her royal gown with a train that went on longer than her engagement and a tiara that shone like a halo. Even if she chooses a long train, it's doubtful it will extend 25 feet long. Diana's designers (David and Elizabeth Emanuel) didn't consider the small carriage that would take her to St. Paul's Cathedral, which explained the cloud of wrinkles that emerged. As for a tiara, it became a tired bridal trend 10 years ago. The fashion-conscious Middleton may want to avoid it altogether.

"I think (Kate's dress) will be as far away from what we saw with Diana as possible," Moeller says. "I bet her veil has some kind of hat. I hate all those hats."

Moeller sees her wearing a bias-cut dress in a luxe fabric such as silk, but not lace as has been widely predicted.

Unlike most brides, it's highly possible several advisers contributed to the final decision. Moeller wouldn't be surprised if family, politics and the public all had an influence.

Patricia Snider, sales manager at Celebrations Bridal, hasn't given the influences much thought. The dress is another story, though. The self-described British pop culture enthusiast has a very specific vision.

"I'm thinking off-white with satin underlay and lace overlay, a 10-foot-long train and buttons or jewels down the back," she says. "Oh, and I think she'll wear the tiara and a long, cathedral-length veil."

One thing is certain. The fashion industry will keep gown-guessing until Friday at 3 a.m. PST, when Middleton walks down the most-watched aisle in 30 years. That will cue the bridal industry to start sketching and their seamstresses to start sewing.

"Her dress will be huge for the designer's business," says Siriano. "A version of that dress will be requested every day for the rest of their life."