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Bacon jam proves addictive at Truffles N Bacon

First, let’s talk about the bacon jam.

I’d heard about Truffles N Bacon’s bacon jam and, frankly, I wondered what all the fuss was about. We’ve had bacon jam in other restaurants, both local and not. Sure, it was pretty good stuff, a shot of concentrated bacon flavor with an indulgent feeling, but I can’t say it blew my frock up.

Then I tried Truffles N Bacon’s version. And now I get it.

We were at the restaurant for breakfast and, not seeing bacon jam on any of the breakfast dishes, ordered it with roasted garlic toast ($8). It did bear some resemblance to the others we’ve had — smoky and bacony with just a touch of sweetness — but somehow the smokiness and baconiness had been accentuated, to lift it to whole new level that passed indulgent right to decadent, and … well, it’s a cliche, but yeah, it was about as addictive as crack.

And Truffles N Bacon seems to have a way with bold, concentrated flavors. Our Florentine Frittata ($10.50) was accompanied by a cup of a pesto made without nuts. I don’t know why it’s nutless — not many people, as far as I know, are allergic to pine nuts, the type customarily used in pesto — but we sure didn’t miss them. I wouldn’t say it was well balanced; it was the lack of balance that made it so appealing, the other flavors taking a back seat to the basil with its bright, springtime-evoking flavor reigning supreme.

And the frittata? Very nice, the flat egg pancake containing lots of spinach and topped by chunks of fresh mozzarella, which was fine as it was but probably would’ve been better if the cheese had been melted, if only partially.

A buttermilk waffle ($8) was on the surface about as simple as it gets, but we weren’t kidding ourselves. Waffles can be difficult to do well, especially on a commercial basis, but this one (in the thick Belgian style) was a perfect pairing of a crisp exterior and an interior that was almost creamy.

Service throughout was good, but then we’d intentionally gone when we expected the restaurant to be quiet and only a few other tables were occupied. Our primary plates didn’t come out at the same time, but that’s a double-edged sword; such timing is iffy at best, and when one is done before the other, we’d prefer it be served promptly rather than languish under a heat lamp.

Truffles N Bacon also is a very comfortable place, with tables sized for a wide range of parties, subtle but pleasant reminders of Christmas and huge paintings that added color and interest to the space.

But truth be told? Yeah, we’d probably go back just for the bacon jam.

— Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Email Heidi Knapp Rinella at hrinella@reviewjournal.com. Find more of her stories at www.reviewjournal.com and follow @HKRinella on Twitter.

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