Hell’s Kitchen serves up superior fare in a bustling setting

Extreme — maybe even obsessive — attention to detail is a requirement for success in the restaurant business, and it’s certainly worked for Gordon Ramsay. The celebrity chef’s fiery reputation stems from his penchant for perfection, and like its local forebears, his Hell’s Kitchen at Caesars Palace hits almost all high notes.

There’s some drama there, which is only appropriate and which extends to the food. The Scampi Prawn Flambe ($24) brought a platform stacked with three intertwined crustaceans, which at the touch of a server’s lighter, burst into a column of flame that echoed the incendiary images decorating the dining room. The prawns were firm and sweet in their bath of garlic and white wine, and the cup of drawn butter, an offbeat touch, both complemented and elevated them.

Less flamboyant dishes shone in their excellence, such as the thoroughly caramelized sweet, tender pan-seared scallops ($22) perched on smudges of pea puree, festooned with chives and centered by a pile of peas tossed with bacon lardons braised to mute their flavor and bits of fennel pickled to highlight theirs, topped with pea shoots.

Among Ramsay’s signature entrees, the beef Wellington ($49) remains a crowd-pleaser for its divergent elements of tender, medium-rare beef fillet, earthy mushroom paste and crisp pastry, a cross-section of it a visual treat in addition to the flavors and textures. The plate was finished with a shallow pool of ultra-creamy mashed potatoes, carrots and a red-wine demiglace.

Roasted lamb chops ($39) were excellent in their simplicity because of the top quality of the meat, with its appealing, slightly gamy edge. Vegetables complete the plates here, with lightly steamed spinach and whole carrots with the lamb.

Accordingly, veggies provided the special touches for a plate of chicken scallops ($29), simply sauteed and adorned with truffle jus. With them was a melange of roasted Pee Wee potatoes — like fingerlings but more round than long — with chunks of delicate artichoke and leaves of pungent lacinato kale.

And baked macaroni and cheese ($9) was comfort food-turned-tour de force, with the smoldering depths of smoked Gouda and salty, hammy notes of prosciutto, plus a crowning layer of caramelized cheese for layers of flavor.

For dessert another Ramsay classic, sticky toffee pudding ($9), warm and only slightly sweet and topped with a scoop of speculoos ice cream, which had the familiar caramel flavor of Biscoff or windmill cookies.

Service throughout was excellent. As for the atmosphere, there’s a qualifier on the high notes mentioned in the first paragraph. That’s because this is a sprawling, noisy place. Beyond the framed photos of the show’s winners and merchandise in the vestibule, the only things evoking the show are the red- or blue-trimmed uniforms on the kitchen staff, some faux TV production reflector lights and clips on continuous loops on the big screens.

If you’re looking for an intensive “Hell’s Kitchen” experience, this may not be your place. But if you’re in search of the stratospheric standards that Ramsay mandates in all of his restaurants, it most definitely is.

Hell’s Kitchen, Caesars Palace; 702-731-7373 or caesars.com

The essence: Perfection in food and service, amid lots of hustle and bustle.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at Hrinella@reviewjournal.com or 702-383-0474. Follow @HKRinella onTwitter.

Artists from Cirque du Soleil contribute art to Las Vegas art exhibit
Artists from Cirque du Soleil contribute art to Las Vegas gallery exhibit
Red Plate on the Las Vegas Strip serves a cocktail made with blooming jasmine tea
Red Plate on the Las Vegas Strip serves a cocktail made with jasmine tea
Benny the Ice Skating Dog
Benny is a Las Vegas Labrador who was rescued by former pro skater Cheryl Del Sanyo, and trained to ice skate. (Mat Luschek/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
The Nevada State Museum
The Nevada State Museum of Las Vegas, located at the Springs Preserve, covers all eras of the state, from prehistoric to today.
Throw a better dinner party
Cash appears at Baseball Winter Meetings
Lights FC mascot Cash plays the electronic drums at the EZ Inflatables’ booth on Tuesday at the Baseball Winter Meetings trade show at Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino.
5 albums to soundtrack your holiday gatherings in style
1. Various Artists, “Holidays Rule," with Rufus Wainwright, The Shins, Calexico and more. 2. Various Artists, “We Wish You a Metal Xmas and a Headbanging New Year," with Lemmy Kilmister, Alice Cooper, Chuck Billy and others. 3. Various Artists, “Christmas on Death Row," featuring Snoop Dogg and Nate Dogg to name but a few. 4. Bright Eyes, “A Christmas Album.” 5. Various Artists, "The Motown Christmas Album." (Jason Bracelin/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Inside the kitchen at Springs Preserve
The staff of Divine Events do party preparation in the kitchen at Divine Cafe at Springs Preserve. With nine parties the following day, this is a particularly busy time for the crew. (Heidi Knapp Rinella/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
WinterFest in Henderson.
Miss Rodeo America Fashion Show
The 28 women contestants of Miss Rodeo America compete in a fashion show at the Tropicana on Dec. 7, 2018.
Tournament Of Kings Holiday Show
Wizards and warriors are ready for the holidays at Excalibur's Tournament of Kings Holiday Dinner Show.
Take a dive with the Silverton mermaids
A visit to the Silverton Casino Hotel is not complete without taking in the popular, and very unique, mermaid show.
Cowboys and western aficionados can buy virtually anything at Cowboy Christmas
Vegas Golden Knights Christmas Display
In the Las Vegas Valley, the chances of getting a white Christmas are slim. But this year, you can have a “Knight” Christmas. A Henderson resident has a Christmas lights display that is synchronized to the entrance music for the Golden Knights. GG Misa’s Knights light show is played every 30 minutes from 5 to 10 nightly. His light show consists of two songs: Mariah Carey’s “All I Want for Christmas Is You” and the entrance music, “Le Castle Vania,” from the movie “John Wick.” The display is located at 730 Bollons Island St. (Richard Brian/Las Vegas Reivew-Journal)
Holiday Hooch At El Cortez is Just in Time For Repeal Day And Christmas
Holiday Hooch At El Cortez Is Just In Time For Repeal Day And Christmas. Janna Karel/Las Vegas Review-Journal
TV's LGBT superheroes
Green Valley Ranch's Winter's Village
The Mob Museum
Best Friend Menu Reveal Wednesday
Chef Roy Choi tells us what to expect from Wednesday’s Facebook Live Menu Reveal for his new Park MGM restaurant Best Friend. (Al Mancini/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Quick Chat With Criss Angel
James D. Gish and Susan Anton rehearse
Susan Anton will be special guest at James D. Gish’s holiday concerts Dec. 7 at Summerlin Library and Dec. 9 at Clark County Library. (John Przybys/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Bellagio Winter Wonderland
"Majestic Holiday Magic" at the Bellagio Conservatory.
Underwater Santa At The Silverton
Santa takes a dive Sunday, December 2, at the Silverton Casino Hotel. (Mat Luschek / Review-Journal)
Cowabunga Bay Christmas Town
Las Vegas Natural History Museum
Las Vegas Natural History Museum, which opened in 1991, has exhibits of mechanical dinosaurs and taxidermied animals, along with live snakes, fish and sharks. (Mat Luschek/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Magical Forest Lights
Cirque Du Soleil Performers Team Up For New Show "Kinekt"
Through dance, acrobatics and aerial arts, “Kinekt” tells a story all too familiar to modern families: how to maintain a human connection in the digital age. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Ethel M Holiday Cactus Garden
The Pinball Hall of Fame in Las Vegas
The Pinball Hall of Fame was created by Tim Arnold and opened in 2006. (Mat Luschek/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Jump! The Ultimate Dog Show at Springs Preserve in Las Vegas
Trainer Lou “Mack” McCammon guides several rescue dogs through a series of tricks and jumps two shows a day weekends through December at the Springs Preserve in Las Vegas. (K.M. Cannon/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
News Headlines
Add Event
Home Front Page Footer Listing
You May Like

You May Like