Ferraro’s food delicious but host’s rudeness leaves bad taste in the mouth

As he showed us to our table, the maitre d’/host at Ferraro’s Italian Restaurant and Wine Bar walked to one of the chairs and pulled it out for me. I smiled and nodded to the other chair, stepping up to it. He said, "Oh! These chairs are heavy!" and hustled over to pull it out for me. Fine. But then, as he walked away, he said, "Thank you for doing my job for me."

Well, that was one.

With a great flourish, he presented the wine list to the man across the table, "This is for you, Signore."

Two.

After our appetizer was served, he addressed the man at the table, "Is everything all right, Signore?"

Three.

Asking us if our entrees were OK, to which we both replied in the affirmative, he said, "Thank you, Signore."

Four, and at this point I was starting to wonder if he was trying to insult me or if it just came naturally.

My reason for choosing the other chair was professional — the position was easier for note taking ­– but that was really none of his business; he should have been happy to accommodate a customer with so simple a request. And he really needs to get out of the Pleistocene era.

Luckily, our waiter was born in this century. Well, OK, he was born in the last century, but you know what I mean. When the man across the table, who absolutely hates to choose the wine, handed the list to me with a chuckle, our perceptive waiter got it immediately, asking me for the wine selection and addressing us equally, even putting the check in the center of the table after we’d finished.

Smart man. And good-natured, despite the fact that Pleistocene Man had seated us in his station immediately after seating a very large party there, while numerous tables elsewhere remained open for the duration. And a really good waiter, in that he was able to handle all of his tables with charm and aplomb.

I’m not a feminist poster child but after an association longer than we sometimes like to remember, the man across the table and I have abandoned silly role playing. I wish Pleistocene Man would do the same. Ferraro’s is near the Convention Center; what does he do when he encounters a visiting female CEO dining with her male administrative assistant?

But enough; let’s get to the food. Ferraro’s counts its osso buco as a specialty, and it seems to be the subject of endless debate, with opinions coming to me from both extreme ends of the spectrum. So of course we had to try it ($43), and here’s where we weigh in: This is one of the best renditions of osso buco we’ve ever had.

Somebody once complained to me that Ferraro’s overcooks its osso buco — hard to do when you’re braising something. Somebody else complained that it was dried out. Ditto, but all of that aside, the veal shank was perfectly succulent, falling-off-the-bone tender and moist with its own juices and a red-wine reduction. It was accompanied by farro, an inspired choice because it so perfectly complemented the texture of the meat. With a rustic texture and nutty flavor, it’s commonly used in Italy but much less so in this country, and it completed a very successful entree — osso buco as it was meant to be, even to the marrow fork for feasting on the bone.

An appetizer of Carpaccio Torcello, or beef carpaccio ($14), was the essence of classic simplicity and quite nicely prepared, the paper-thin raw beef topped by generous shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano plus a mountain of arugula, whose bitter austerity nicely played off the richness of the beef, and just a drizzle of truffle oil.

And, long believing that the red sauce is the lifeblood of any Italian restaurant, we decided to put Ferraro’s version to the test in the Rigatoni Polpette o Salsiccia ($20) — rigatoni with meatballs or sausage, to you and me. The housemade rigatoni nicely walked the delicate/al dente tightrope, and the sauce, though a little pulpy for our tastes, was deeply flavored and blissfully not oversalted.

And the meatballs? Quite nice — sort of soft but nowhere near mushy, and, in perhaps the ultimate compliment, evocative of those made by a much-beloved, long-departed Neapolitan grandfather.

Who, come to think of it, could’ve taught Pleistocene Man a thing or two.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at 383-0474 or email her at hrinella@ reviewjournal.com.

ad-high_impact_4
Entertainment
Artists from Cirque du Soleil contribute art to Las Vegas art exhibit
Artists from Cirque du Soleil contribute art to Las Vegas gallery exhibit
Red Plate on the Las Vegas Strip serves a cocktail made with blooming jasmine tea
Red Plate on the Las Vegas Strip serves a cocktail made with jasmine tea
Benny the Ice Skating Dog
Benny is a Las Vegas Labrador who was rescued by former pro skater Cheryl Del Sanyo, and trained to ice skate. (Mat Luschek/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
The Nevada State Museum
The Nevada State Museum of Las Vegas, located at the Springs Preserve, covers all eras of the state, from prehistoric to today.
Throw a better dinner party
Cash appears at Baseball Winter Meetings
Lights FC mascot Cash plays the electronic drums at the EZ Inflatables’ booth on Tuesday at the Baseball Winter Meetings trade show at Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino.
5 albums to soundtrack your holiday gatherings in style
1. Various Artists, “Holidays Rule," with Rufus Wainwright, The Shins, Calexico and more. 2. Various Artists, “We Wish You a Metal Xmas and a Headbanging New Year," with Lemmy Kilmister, Alice Cooper, Chuck Billy and others. 3. Various Artists, “Christmas on Death Row," featuring Snoop Dogg and Nate Dogg to name but a few. 4. Bright Eyes, “A Christmas Album.” 5. Various Artists, "The Motown Christmas Album." (Jason Bracelin/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Inside the kitchen at Springs Preserve
The staff of Divine Events do party preparation in the kitchen at Divine Cafe at Springs Preserve. With nine parties the following day, this is a particularly busy time for the crew. (Heidi Knapp Rinella/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
WinterFest
WinterFest in Henderson.
Miss Rodeo America Fashion Show
The 28 women contestants of Miss Rodeo America compete in a fashion show at the Tropicana on Dec. 7, 2018.
Tournament Of Kings Holiday Show
Wizards and warriors are ready for the holidays at Excalibur's Tournament of Kings Holiday Dinner Show.
Take a dive with the Silverton mermaids
A visit to the Silverton Casino Hotel is not complete without taking in the popular, and very unique, mermaid show.
Cowboys and western aficionados can buy virtually anything at Cowboy Christmas
Vegas Golden Knights Christmas Display
In the Las Vegas Valley, the chances of getting a white Christmas are slim. But this year, you can have a “Knight” Christmas. A Henderson resident has a Christmas lights display that is synchronized to the entrance music for the Golden Knights. GG Misa’s Knights light show is played every 30 minutes from 5 to 10 nightly. His light show consists of two songs: Mariah Carey’s “All I Want for Christmas Is You” and the entrance music, “Le Castle Vania,” from the movie “John Wick.” The display is located at 730 Bollons Island St. (Richard Brian/Las Vegas Reivew-Journal)
Holiday Hooch At El Cortez is Just in Time For Repeal Day And Christmas
Holiday Hooch At El Cortez Is Just In Time For Repeal Day And Christmas. Janna Karel/Las Vegas Review-Journal
TV's LGBT superheroes
Green Valley Ranch's Winter's Village
The Mob Museum
Best Friend Menu Reveal Wednesday
Chef Roy Choi tells us what to expect from Wednesday’s Facebook Live Menu Reveal for his new Park MGM restaurant Best Friend. (Al Mancini/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Quick Chat With Criss Angel
James D. Gish and Susan Anton rehearse
Susan Anton will be special guest at James D. Gish’s holiday concerts Dec. 7 at Summerlin Library and Dec. 9 at Clark County Library. (John Przybys/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Bellagio Winter Wonderland
"Majestic Holiday Magic" at the Bellagio Conservatory.
Underwater Santa At The Silverton
Santa takes a dive Sunday, December 2, at the Silverton Casino Hotel. (Mat Luschek / Review-Journal)
Cowabunga Bay Christmas Town
Las Vegas Natural History Museum
Las Vegas Natural History Museum, which opened in 1991, has exhibits of mechanical dinosaurs and taxidermied animals, along with live snakes, fish and sharks. (Mat Luschek/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Magical Forest Lights
Cirque Du Soleil Performers Team Up For New Show "Kinekt"
Through dance, acrobatics and aerial arts, “Kinekt” tells a story all too familiar to modern families: how to maintain a human connection in the digital age. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Ethel M Holiday Cactus Garden
The Pinball Hall of Fame in Las Vegas
The Pinball Hall of Fame was created by Tim Arnold and opened in 2006. (Mat Luschek/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Jump! The Ultimate Dog Show at Springs Preserve in Las Vegas
Trainer Lou “Mack” McCammon guides several rescue dogs through a series of tricks and jumps two shows a day weekends through December at the Springs Preserve in Las Vegas. (K.M. Cannon/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
TOP NEWS
News Headlines
Add Event
Home Front Page Footer Listing
Circular
You May Like

You May Like