Hamptons shines brightest with fruits and vegetables

Updated February 4, 2018 - 3:18 pm

The name Hamptons may evoke the Long Island shore, but the Tivoli Village restaurant is pure California.

If the definition of California cuisine seems more contextual than clearly defined, it’s widely considered to revolve around fresh seasonal produce and abundant creativity. And yes, Hamptons delivers on both counts, the latter in the form of unexpected twists.

Bruschetta ($12) may be the artichoke-and-spinach dip of our era, but Hamptons chef Jay Bogsinske veers from the typical tomato-and-basil path. He starts with a spread of lemon-infused ricotta and tops it with crisp slices of tart Granny Smith apple, a drizzle of brandy-apple syrup, toasted pecans for crunch and a bit of basil for accent, or maybe a nod to tradition. The result was surprisingly sweet and a refreshing touch of spring on a drab winter day.

Chefs are doing a lot with avocados these days, including avocado fries ($9). Not like this, though; not only did the batons carry a nice, light crunch that contrasted effectively with the creamy interiors, they were served with two excellent house-made dipping sauces, an earthy smoked-tomato ketchup and a sprightly Green Goddess, which complemented the buttery fruit.

The diversions continued with Wild Isles Salmon Mignon ($22), farm-raised in the open ocean off the Shetland Isles, an environment that boosted the flavor to muscular but not overwhelming. The “mignon” cut (mirroring the shape of the familiar beef but not the original definition of dainty and cute) was a new treatment that used the fish to advantage, the thickness allowing the medallion to be caramelized on the exterior while remaining medium-rare and moist within. The fish was accompanied by a few florets of roasted cauliflower and some heirloom carrots braised with honey.

Things didn’t proceed as smoothly with the pork prime rib ($34), where a substitution felt like a misstep. With the accompanying Brussels sprouts unavailable, it was suggested we choose two sides, and the garlic spinach (tender fresh leaves with copious amounts of garlic) and apple-cabbage slaw with cider vinaigrette (crisp and pleasantly astringent) were interesting and appealing. But the bacon, poached apples, cinnamon butter, cranberries and scallions that were to have been served with the pork — and for which it has a natural affinity — were missing, presumably because of a potential clash with the side dishes. It probably would’ve been better to 86 the whole thing until the sprouts returned.

And a dessert, Bananas Foster Split ($9), was a good idea but overly ambitious. The dish started with caramelized bananas and included ice cream, salted caramel, blueberries and bourbon whipped cream. The bananas were deftly prepared but there was a lot going on here that distracted from them; Bananas Foster has survived the decades because of its pure simplicity.

Hamptons isn’t a plant-based restaurant, but it shines most when its focus is on fruits and vegetables.

Hamptons, Tivoli Village; 702-916-1482 or hamptonslv.com

The essence: Skilled interpretation of California cuisine, especially when focus is on fruits and vegetables.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at Hrinella@reviewjournal.com or 702-383-0474. Follow @HKRinella on Twitter.

This "Alice in Wonderland" cocktail changes colors and flavors while you sip
Take a tour of The Underground at The Mob Museum
Prince death investigation coming to an end
Prosecutors in Minnesota plan an announcement Thursday on the two-year investigation into Prince's death from a drug overdose Prince was 57 when he was found alone and unresponsive in an elevator at his Paisley Park estate on April 21, 2016. An autopsy found he died of an accidental overdose of fentanyl. Search warrants unsealed about a year after Prince died showed that authorities searched his home, cellphone records of associates and his email accounts to try to determine how he got the drug. The county attorney has scheduled a morning announcement at which time charges could be filed.
Art Bell’s Top 10 Shows
A selection of radio host Art Bell’s most popular shows.
Big Bounce America visits North Las Vegas
Billing itself as "the biggest bounce house in the world," Big Bounce America visits Craig Ranch Regional Park in Las Vegas.
David Copperfield in court after man injured during magic trick
The attorney for a British man who is suing illusionist David Copperfield said his client suffered serious injuries after being called on stage during Copperfield's show at MGM Grand.
Disneyland debuts new foods for Pixar Fest on Friday
Pixar Fest takes place ahead of California Adventure’s Pixar Pier expansion. (Janna Karel/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Sneak Peek at New Decorations, Merch and Parade for Disneyland's Pixar Fest
Las Vegas Philharmonic celebrates 20th anniversary season
Orchestra’s 2018-19 season features premiere, more (Carol Cling/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Downtown Las Vegas' newest bar is a reggae lounge
Jammyland serves island-inspired cocktails. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
5 things connecting Las Vegas and Marilyn Monroe
1. Marilyn Monroe, known then as Norma Jeane, obtained her first divorce in Las Vegas at the age of 20 on September 13, 1946. 2. According to some biographers, Monroe lived at 604 S. 3rd Street for four months during the summer of 1946. The house has since been torn down and is now the site of a parking lot. 3. In 1954, Monroe almost married Joe DiMaggio in Las Vegas but the wedding was called off last minute. The wedding was to be held at the Hotel El Rancho Vegas which was located on the southwest corner of Sahara Avenue and Las Vegas Boulevard. 4. Las Vegas has at least one road dedicated to the star. Marilyn Monroe Avenue is located in east Las Vegas and intersects with Betty Davis Street and Cary Grant Court. 5. There are currently more than 20 Marilyn Monroe impersonators for hire in the Las Vegas Valley.
This boozy milkshake is big enough to share with seven of your best friends
Fiddlestix makes an "8 Man Milkshake" that's packed with alcohol. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Five Chris Stapleton songs you need to hear
D. Michael Evola opened E-String to make New York style pizza
Shamrock Macarons at Morels at Palazzo
Zuma serves a sushi roll topped with 24-karat gold
La Cirque covers their quail and foie gras in real gold
Jean-Georges Steakhouse seves chocolate gold bars
3 ways you can eat gold in Las Vegas
Artist Kathleen Nathan On The Virtues Of Library Galleries
The Las Vegas-Clark County Library District’s art galleries offers artists a more relaxed vibe for showing their work. (John Przybys/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Nevada SPCA Competes In Tournament Of Tails
The NSPCA and its mascot cat, Prince, are competing in an online voting challenge for a $5,000 grand prize.
Red carpet at MGM for Dan Reynolds Believer screening
Kats on the red carpet for the VIP screening of "Believer," the documentary by Imagine Dragons frontman Dan Reynolds about how the Mormon Church treats its LGBTQ members.
Eureka's cocktail comes with a "buzz button" that will shock your taste buds
‘The Sopranos’ Prequel Film Confirmed
‘The Sopranos’ Prequel Film Confirmed Deadline reports that New Line has purchased Chase and Lawrence Konner’s screenplay for their “Sopranos” prequel film. The working title for the prequel is “The Many Saints of Newark.” Chase created the HBO series, which ran for six seasons, and Konner served as a writer. “The Many Saints of Newark” is set during the 1960s riots in the New Jersey city between the African-American and Italian communities. Multiple characters from the series, albeit younger versions, are expected to star in the film. The Sopranos won 21 Primetime Emmy Awards and five Golden Globe Awards during its run.
The Big Bounce America is coming to the Las Vegas Valley
The Big Bounce America. (Courtesy Big Bounce America)
The 90th Oscars Were the Least Watched in History
The 90th Oscars Were the Least Watched in History According to The Hollywood Reporter, 26.5 million watched the Oscars, a 20 percent drop from last year. The 26.5 million viewers would be an all-time low for the Oscars. Overnight returns had the lengthy ABC telecast averaging a 18.9 rating among households between 8 and 11 p.m. ET. Last year, 32.9 million viewers tuned in to watch the ceremony. The previous low for viewership was 32 million viewers in 2008 when Jon Stewart was host. The Shape of Water picked up an award for Best Picture, while Gary Oldman and Frances McDormand won Best Actor and Actress, respectively.
March First Friday theme is “Think”
First Friday art, culture, music and food event takes place on the first Friday of every month in and around the studios and galleries of the Arts District in downtown Las Vegas. (K.M. Cannon)
Cirque’s One Night for One Drop gets ready for the big night
Cirque du Soleil’s “One Night for One Drop” performed a dress rehearsal for the annual benefit show. This year’s show at Mandalay Bay is based on the life of singer-songwriter Jewel. K.M. Cannon/Las Vegas Review-Journal
The Kosher Experience provides kosher foods to Las Vegas families
2018-19 Broadway Las Vegas at The Smith Center
Ten touring productions are on The Smith Center’s 2018-19 Broadway Las Vegas season schedule. (The Smith Center)
News Headlines
Local Spotlight
Home Front Page Footer Listing
You May Like

You May Like