Heidi’s Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.
HOFBRÄUHAUS LAS VEGAS
4510 Paradise Road; 853-2337
An experience at the Hofbräuhaus has much to do with the room in which one is seated. The rear "indoor beer garden" is almost too quiet, but the raucous front room is more in keeping with the atmosphere of the Munich original. As for the food, the Sauerbraten was a tad on the dry side but the Nürmberger Rostbratwürstl, Bavarian Liver Mousse and Obazter, Swiss cheese with radishes, butter and rye bread, and Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte would make Oma proud. (12/17/08)
MONTANA MEAT CO.
6371 Centennial Center Blvd. (also at 9135 S. Durango Drive); 396-7615
We were impressed with the 16-ounce rib-eye in Montana Meat’s signature pepper marinade not because it was a great steak — it was more of a good steak — but because its price was about half of what other places around town are charging for similar quality. A starter of flavorful tiny lamb chops, moist bacon-wrapped scallops with a sprightly orange-mango chutney, macadamia-crusted Alaskan halibut and some really good sourdough bread were all likewise worthy of note. (8/22/08)
Overall: B+ $$
PIERO’S ITALIAN CUISINE
355 Convention Center Drive; 369-2305
Piero’s has many of the trappings of a conventionaire/tourist-centric restaurant– the location close to the convention center, the high prices, the multitude of tables for large parties– but much about it doesn’t feel touristy, and that would include the quality of the food and service. We were extremely pleased with the roasted artichoke, Saltimbocca alla Romana, Fettucine A Modo Mido — fresh fettucine with broccoli, mushrooms and pancetta, to you and us — and a creamy, not overly sweet tiramisu infused with a striking coffee flavor. (9/11/09)
Overall: A $$$$