Heidi’s Picks

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

BOUCHON

Venezia Tower at The Venetian, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 414-6200

It still seems as incongruous among the Italianate trappings of The Venetian as on the day it opened, but Bouchon has worn very nicely, delivering French-bistro fare that's as authentic as it gets. Notable were a charcuterie board, the Poulet Roti (roast chicken), Triute aux Amandes (trout almondine) and the silken-sin richness of the Mousse au Chocolate Noir, which requires no translation. (7/31/09)

Overall: A$$$

BRIO TUSCAN GRILLE

Town Square, 6653 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 914-9145

Brio looks a lot more like a Tuscan manse than an outlet of a restaurant chain based in Columbus, Ohio, but that's just part of its appeal. It manages to deliver the familiar with a slightly innovative edge, as in the garganelli carbonara, with not only the customary bacon and Parmesan but also grilled chicken and fresh spinach leaves, bruschetta Caprese that blends the best of both dishes, a somewhat-too-subtle artichoke-and-herb-crusted pork chop, a trio of creme brulee and a lovely soup of the day, creme of morel. (1/29/10)

Overall: A-$$

CHINA MAMA

3420 S. Jones Blvd.; 873-1977

Four words of advice if you go to China MaMa: steamed juicy pork buns. These plump, dumplinglike babies are real -- and they're spectacular. Also worthy of note: the creamy chicken corn soup, green-onion pancake and beef roll. The place isn't big on atmosphere -- it is, after all, a former bank, and you can pretty much make out all of the features except for the vault -- but the food and prices are tough to beat. (11/6/09)

Overall: A $