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Buzz BBQ takes its time smoking meat

Smoking is encouraged at Buzz BBQ -- in the kitchen. That's where a charcoal-and-hickory-log smoker imparts its down-home flavor.

"Everybody says they smoke, but most people don't truly smoke," says co-owner Mike Hanson, who opened this, Buzz's second location, at 7121 W. Craig Road, in November.

"They smoke, but they don't smoke all the way," Hanson elaborates. "They use more of a combination oven-slash-smoker, which bakes the meat as it smokes it."

This drastically speeds up the flavoring process, which for Buzz takes between 12 and 16 hours for a 15 pound brisket. But, Hanson claims, it also dries the meat out. And the reviews of Buzz usually note how much more moist, tender and thickly sliced its brisket is than most. Hanson explains: "Because it's so tender, if you cut it real thin, it's gonna fall apart."

The barbecue idea struck about eight years ago, when Hanson and his Oklahoma-raised business partner, David Jackson, still worked as managers for Applebee's.

"We had already built someone else's empire and we wanted to see if we could build our own," Hanson says. "So we started talking barbecue."

Jackson spilled his father's secret rub recipes, and they opened their first valley location in 2006 (first on Ann Road).

Because the newest location is short on windows, murals on three walls make it perpetually sunset on a barren desert.

Buzz BBQ seats 160 diners at 22 tables, from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, and noon-9 p.m. Sundays. Reservations are not needed.

Starters: Rib tips and fries, $8.95; farm-raised catfish and fries, $9; rib, finger and fries basket, $10.50

Salads: BBQ chicken salad, $8.50; pulled pork Caesar salad, $8.50; brisket salad, $8.50

Entrees: Two-item combination, $16; 1 pound brisket dinner, $17; 1 pound andouille sausage dinner, $16

Desserts: Blackberry cobbler, $3.50; apple cobbler, $3.50; homemade ice cream, $3.50

Information: 489-2800

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