Newest Casa Don Juan needs polish to live up to reputation

Casa Don Juan is one of those local business successes that prove little guys can survive and even compete with national chains.

The restaurant opened in the mid-’90s as a hole in the wall in downtown Las Vegas and quickly drew a loyal following, expanding as the seams were about to burst. Another expansion and second-floor addition are in the offing. A northwest valley location followed a few years ago and a southeast valley spot, on Sunset Road near Pecos Road, opened this summer.

Casa Don Juan’s popularity isn’t due to flashy original dishes, festive seafood extravaganzas or re-creations of obscure street favorites. In fact, it’s the opposite. This is familiar Mexican fare — tacos, quesadillas, burritos and enchiladas that have become part of the American culinary lexicon — consistently well prepared.

But this newest Casa Don Juan has a few wrinkles to iron out. The house salsa, enlivened with the smoky character of chipotle and a bowl of bean dip, was delicious. The chips were warm and crisp, having just been made by a woman running a mini-tortilleria near the back of the restaurant as customers looked on. Why nobody fished out a couple burned chips was a mystery, as was the fact that a requested bowl of cheese dip with jalapeños ($6.50) didn’t appear until midway through the meal (and only after a reminder). If it contained jalapeños, they were too subtle to be detected.

Lunch and dinner combinations come in nearly every conceivable variation. In the case of the taco and chile relleno platter ($13.99), both items were substantial and satisfying — the fried pepper puffy, the shredded-beef taco a contrast of crisp shell and lettuce against the softer meat.

Carne asada ($15.99) was listed on the menu as “Casa Don Juan-style,” and it had the hallmarks of a house specialty. The meat was deeply marinated, moist and tender, accompanied by warm tortillas a scoop of guacamole, sautéed onions and a barely-there salad. Both plates also came with average yellow rice and refried beans topped with cheese.

Muddled service was another snag. The waiter seemed on top of his game, but duplicate visits by assistants and a server who seemed confused about the food he was bringing to the table didn’t help matters. Management also needs to reconsider the seating, carried over from previous owners, because some booths are tight even for people of average size.

New restaurants often have growing pains. But an established team like this should deliver a much smoother experience from the very first day of a new location.

If you go

■ Casa Don Juan Mexican Restaurant, 3460 E. Sunset Road (and two other locations); 702-916-2675

■ The essence: Newest offshoot needs polish to live up to example of its brethren.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at Hrinella@reviewjournal.com or 702-383-0474. Follow @HKRinella on Twitter.