Small Plates: Lao Sze Chuan and “Itsu: The Cookbook”

DINING OUT

LAO SZE CHUAN, THE PALMS, 4321 W. FLAMINGO ROAD

Lao Sze Chuan, which opened last week, is from Chicago-based chef Tony Hu, and like the flagship it specializes in Szechuan cuisine and also serves Mandarin-, Cantonese-, Hunan- and Shanghai-style dishes among the more than 200 selections on the menu. Hu frequently travels to China to ensure that his menu reflects the latest in the country’s cuisine; recent additions include Sze Chuan peppercorn fish and twice cooked pork Szechuan-style. Lao Sze Chuan is decorated with traditional Chinese elements and accents of gold, red and purple; a poolside patio is scheduled to open soon. Here’s a sample of the menu:

Appetizers: Jellyfish Shanghai-style, $7.95; wood ear mushroom salad, $6.95; spinach with garlic sauce, $6.95; crispy peanuts with dried bean curd, $6.95; Shanghai spring rolls, $2.95; egg rolls with chicken, $3.95; pork pot stickers, $6.95; crab rangoon, $5.95; jumbo shrimp, $7.95.

Soups: Hot and sour, $2.95; wonton, $2.95; egg drop, $2.95; pan-fried eggs with tomato soup, $6.95; sour pickle and sole fish fillet soup, $7.95; seafood tofu soup, $7.95.

House specials: Abalone in green Szechuan pepper sauce, market price; house special spicy blue crab, $19.95; stewed spicy rabbit in hot pot, $16.95; stir-fried preserved pork with leek, $12.95; house special frog in hot mini wok, $24.95; fresh frog with sour pickle chili, $24.95; Kung Pao shrimp traditional Szechuan style, $18.95; Mapo Tofu, $11.95; Szechuan peppercorn fish, $15.95; Mongolian beef tenderloin, $13.95; Three Cups Chicken, $13.95.

Entrees: Kung Pao chicken American style, $12.95; Mongolian chicken, $12.95; General Tso’s Chicken, $13.95; house special duck with beer in pot, $17.95; lamb with pure cumin, $15.95; beef tenderloin with snow peas, $13.95; Chairman Mao Hong Sue Pork, $12.95; Tony’s Chicken with Three Chili, $13.95; Szechuan smoked tea duck, $15.95; pork intestine and pork blood cake in pot, $13.95; twice cooked pork Sze Chuan style, $12.95; double fried sliced pork with cilantro, $13.95.

Hours are from 11 a.m. to midnight Sundays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays; dim sum is served from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. Call 702-990-8888 or visit www.Palms.com.

NEW BOOKS FOR COOKS

SPICY HOT EDAMAME

2 cups edamame in their pods

1 teaspoon light oil, such as peanut, for frying

1 hot red Thai chili, chopped

1 garlic clove, grated or crushed

1 ½-inch piece of fresh ginger root, finely chopped (about 3 tablespoons)

1 tablespoon soy sauce

Flaked salt, for serving (optional)

Steam the edamame pods for 3 minutes, or cook them in boiling water for 2 minutes. Drain well.

Heat a wok or deep skillet and add the oil. Saute the chili, garlic and ginger for about 1 minute, stirring well. Add the cooked pods and soy sauce and toss to mix.

Transfer to a bowl and serve the hot edamame pods and sauce sprinkled with salt flakes, if you desire.

Serves 2 as an appetizer or 4 as a snack.

Recipe from “Itsu: The Cookbook” by Julian Metcalfe and Blanche Vaughan (Mitchell Beazley; $19.99)

— Heidi Knapp Rinella