Flock & Fowl celebrates simple goodness of chicken

Yes, the chicken really is that good. Chef Sheridan Su’s Hainanese chicken has attracted a cult following at his Flock &Fowl spots on West Sahara Avenue and at The Ogden downtown.

It’s all about skilled cookery: Throw a chicken into some plain water and boil it mercilessly and you’ll end up with a bland meal. But taking a page from Hainanese-inspired chefs in Taipei, Su massages the bird into the ultimate comfort food, and it’s brought food-lovers flocking to his doors.

He starts with plump, free-range, air-chilled birds, inherently more flavorful than the supermarket variety, and poaches them gently with a touch of ginger just until they’re cooked through, then serves the sliced breast with skin and its layer of fat. The meat has a fresh-from-the-farm wholesome-grainy flavor, velvety firmness and impressive juiciness. Little pools of three house-made sauces — ginger-scallion, chile and soy — are on the same platter, the chile adding flair and fire thanks to a pronounced note of ginger. The accompanying rice is goosed with chicken schmaltz for silkiness, ginger and scallions for flavor.

At Flock &Fowl the signature dish is served in the traditional poached manner, or fried or roasted if you prefer ($14.99). The plate also includes the customary sliced cucumber plus two sides; juicy Chinese sausage and a fried egg balanced the flavors, adding richness. Other side choices are a vegetable, a one-hour egg or bone broth, in another nod to tradition.

Flock &Fowl’s menu is limited by design; the chicken is the main act. Beef lovers can get a fix with The Butcher’s Steak ($25.99), a 9-ounce hanger with a soy glaze that accentuates the meaty flavor while adding a touch of sweetness. On the side was a mountain of curly fries and a streak of Flock sauce, which tastes a lot like fry sauce (which contians mayo and ketchup) with some garlic crunchies on top.

If you’re just stopping by for a drink, snacks and starters also are served. Downtown Farmer’s Ricotta Toast ($8.99) was a hefty slice of lightly toasted egg bread smeared with ricotta and topped with the day’s vegetable (in this case tender, earthy wedges of roasted beets), a drizzle of oil and a sprinkle of microgreens.

Miso black garlic hummus ($8.99) had deep, mellow flavor, but the best part was crispy wedges of scallion pancake, much more appealing for dipping than the carrot and celery sticks.

Su, who was nominated for a James Beard Award this year, popped onto the scene a few years ago with the Great Bao food truck with his wife, Jenny Wong. That led to Fat Choy in the Eureka Casino on East Sahara Avenue, where Su’s short-rib grilled cheese racked up fans, and the original (and temporarily closed) Flock &Fowl on West Sahara Avenue, and then to the Ogden location, which opened late last year.

His cooking chops are impressive, starting with the Culinary Institute of America in New York and continuing with jobs around the country and in Las Vegas, where he opened Joel Robuchon at the Mansion (now just Joel Robuchon) at MGM Grand and Wazuzu at Encore and served as executive chef at the now-closed Comme Ca at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas.

Su reportedly decided to ditch the corporate world after a dispiriting layoff, and it appears to have been a good move. Not only is he forging his own path, he’s winning new respect for the lowly chicken.

Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at Hrinella@reviewjournal.com or 702-383-0474. Follow @HKRinella on Twitter.

Benny the Ice Skating Dog
Benny is a Las Vegas Labrador who was rescued by former pro skater Cheryl Del Sanyo, and trained to ice skate. (Mat Luschek/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
The Nevada State Museum
The Nevada State Museum of Las Vegas, located at the Springs Preserve, covers all eras of the state, from prehistoric to today.
Throw a better dinner party
Cash appears at Baseball Winter Meetings
Lights FC mascot Cash plays the electronic drums at the EZ Inflatables’ booth on Tuesday at the Baseball Winter Meetings trade show at Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino.
5 albums to soundtrack your holiday gatherings in style
1. Various Artists, “Holidays Rule," with Rufus Wainwright, The Shins, Calexico and more. 2. Various Artists, “We Wish You a Metal Xmas and a Headbanging New Year," with Lemmy Kilmister, Alice Cooper, Chuck Billy and others. 3. Various Artists, “Christmas on Death Row," featuring Snoop Dogg and Nate Dogg to name but a few. 4. Bright Eyes, “A Christmas Album.” 5. Various Artists, "The Motown Christmas Album." (Jason Bracelin/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Inside the kitchen at Springs Preserve
The staff of Divine Events do party preparation in the kitchen at Divine Cafe at Springs Preserve. With nine parties the following day, this is a particularly busy time for the crew. (Heidi Knapp Rinella/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
WinterFest in Henderson.
Miss Rodeo America Fashion Show
The 28 women contestants of Miss Rodeo America compete in a fashion show at the Tropicana on Dec. 7, 2018.
Tournament Of Kings Holiday Show
Wizards and warriors are ready for the holidays at Excalibur's Tournament of Kings Holiday Dinner Show.
Take a dive with the Silverton mermaids
A visit to the Silverton Casino Hotel is not complete without taking in the popular, and very unique, mermaid show.
Cowboys and western aficionados can buy virtually anything at Cowboy Christmas
Vegas Golden Knights Christmas Display
In the Las Vegas Valley, the chances of getting a white Christmas are slim. But this year, you can have a “Knight” Christmas. A Henderson resident has a Christmas lights display that is synchronized to the entrance music for the Golden Knights. GG Misa’s Knights light show is played every 30 minutes from 5 to 10 nightly. His light show consists of two songs: Mariah Carey’s “All I Want for Christmas Is You” and the entrance music, “Le Castle Vania,” from the movie “John Wick.” The display is located at 730 Bollons Island St. (Richard Brian/Las Vegas Reivew-Journal)
Holiday Hooch At El Cortez is Just in Time For Repeal Day And Christmas
Holiday Hooch At El Cortez Is Just In Time For Repeal Day And Christmas. Janna Karel/Las Vegas Review-Journal
TV's LGBT superheroes
Green Valley Ranch's Winter's Village
The Mob Museum
Best Friend Menu Reveal Wednesday
Chef Roy Choi tells us what to expect from Wednesday’s Facebook Live Menu Reveal for his new Park MGM restaurant Best Friend. (Al Mancini/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Quick Chat With Criss Angel
James D. Gish and Susan Anton rehearse
Susan Anton will be special guest at James D. Gish’s holiday concerts Dec. 7 at Summerlin Library and Dec. 9 at Clark County Library. (John Przybys/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Bellagio Winter Wonderland
"Majestic Holiday Magic" at the Bellagio Conservatory.
Underwater Santa At The Silverton
Santa takes a dive Sunday, December 2, at the Silverton Casino Hotel. (Mat Luschek / Review-Journal)
Cowabunga Bay Christmas Town
Las Vegas Natural History Museum
Las Vegas Natural History Museum, which opened in 1991, has exhibits of mechanical dinosaurs and taxidermied animals, along with live snakes, fish and sharks. (Mat Luschek/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Magical Forest Lights
Cirque Du Soleil Performers Team Up For New Show "Kinekt"
Through dance, acrobatics and aerial arts, “Kinekt” tells a story all too familiar to modern families: how to maintain a human connection in the digital age. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Ethel M Holiday Cactus Garden
The Pinball Hall of Fame in Las Vegas
The Pinball Hall of Fame was created by Tim Arnold and opened in 2006. (Mat Luschek/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Jump! The Ultimate Dog Show at Springs Preserve in Las Vegas
Trainer Lou “Mack” McCammon guides several rescue dogs through a series of tricks and jumps two shows a day weekends through December at the Springs Preserve in Las Vegas. (K.M. Cannon/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Buddy V - Sep 21 Confidante
Famous Infinity Mirror Room is open in Las Vegas
Yayoi Kusama's "Aftermath of Obliteration of Infinity" mirror room is open at the Bellagio in Las Vegas (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
News Headlines
Add Event
Home Front Page Footer Listing
You May Like

You May Like