Old Vegas lives on at Golden Steer Steakhouse

Updated April 14, 2017 - 3:27 pm

‘Have you been in before?” asked the waiter.

“Yes, but it’s been a while.”

“It hasn’t changed.”

That would be a short route to oblivion for most restaurants, but the people behind the Golden Steer Steakhouse know what has served it well since 1958 and kept it going until its old Vegas cred made it cool again.

It was an old haunt of Frank and the Rat Pack in the days when they performed on the Strip a few blocks away. The restaurant has taken down the nameplate that used to mark Sinatra’s booth because of light-fingered guests but you can sit there if you ask and it’s available. It hardly seems necessary, though, in a place where the dining rooms are filled with old-school button-tufted circular booths and portraits of Pack contemporaries, and the Chairman of the Board dominates the soundtrack.

The Rat Pack booth is one of the most popular seating options at the Golden Steer Steakhouse. Benjamin Hager Las Vegas Review-Journal

Order Dino’s favorite martini and you can get it with modern-standard blue-cheese olives but in a glass that would hold two of today’s cocktails ($15). Wines by the glass may be Strip-level pricey but again, the pours are generous.

Frank’s favorite clams casino is nowhere to be seen but the tableside Caesar salad ($12 per person) is not only a throwback but a very good one. The process, complete with narration, produced a salad that was cold and crisp and pungent with Parmesan cheese and Worcestershire sauce, with subtle undercurrents from lemon and anchovy paste.

Legend has it, Frank was fond of the New York strip and that’s here in all its 16-ounce glory ($50), thoroughly seared on the exterior, pink within and carrying the depth of flavor that aging provides.

Golden Steer Steakhouse

Alaskan salmon ($32) is on the menu, too, baked, poached or blackened, the latter of which was decent enough but reminded us that everybody’s forgotten (and quenched) the fire of blackened fish in its heyday.

Creamed spinach ($9) was by far the weakest link, a surprisingly runny interpretation that did no justice to fine steakhouse tradition.

Although the bananas Foster ($15) did, even more so because the dish, and especially the tableside preparation, are so rare. The waiter suggested splitting bananas for one and it was just enough, the flaming rum-brown-sugar-banana sauce reaching dramatic heights (positively fascinating a nearby table of 30-somethings) before it was carefully poured over vanilla ice cream.

The dining area at the Golden Steer Steakhouse. Benjamin Hager Las Vegas Review-Journal

Service throughout was elegant and polished, the kind that’s no longer in favor but still appreciated.

There’s a tendency to romanticize Old Las Vegas, which was a period of racism, rampant misogyny and other forms of ignorance, but some aspects were wholly positive, and at the Golden Steer they live on.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at Hrinella@reviewjournal.com or 702-383-0474. Follow @HKRinella on Twitter.

Cowboys and western aficionados can buy virtually anything at Cowboy Christmas
Vegas Golden Knights Christmas Display
In the Las Vegas Valley, the chances of getting a white Christmas are slim. But this year, you can have a “Knight” Christmas. A Henderson resident has a Christmas lights display that is synchronized to the entrance music for the Golden Knights. GG Misa’s Knights light show is played every 30 minutes from 5 to 10 nightly. His light show consists of two songs: Mariah Carey’s “All I Want for Christmas Is You” and the entrance music, “Le Castle Vania,” from the movie “John Wick.” The display is located at 730 Bollons Island St. (Richard Brian/Las Vegas Reivew-Journal)
Holiday Hooch At El Cortez is Just in Time For Repeal Day And Christmas
Holiday Hooch At El Cortez Is Just In Time For Repeal Day And Christmas. Janna Karel/Las Vegas Review-Journal
TV's LGBT superheroes
Green Valley Ranch's Winter's Village
The Mob Museum
Best Friend Menu Reveal Wednesday
Chef Roy Choi tells us what to expect from Wednesday’s Facebook Live Menu Reveal for his new Park MGM restaurant Best Friend. (Al Mancini/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Quick Chat With Criss Angel
James D. Gish and Susan Anton rehearse
Susan Anton will be special guest at James D. Gish’s holiday concerts Dec. 7 at Summerlin Library and Dec. 9 at Clark County Library. (John Przybys/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Bellagio Winter Wonderland
"Majestic Holiday Magic" at the Bellagio Conservatory.
Underwater Santa At The Silverton
Santa takes a dive Sunday, December 2, at the Silverton Casino Hotel. (Mat Luschek / Review-Journal)
Cowabunga Bay Christmas Town
Las Vegas Natural History Museum
Las Vegas Natural History Museum, which opened in 1991, has exhibits of mechanical dinosaurs and taxidermied animals, along with live snakes, fish and sharks. (Mat Luschek/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Magical Forest Lights
Cirque Du Soleil Performers Team Up For New Show "Kinekt"
Through dance, acrobatics and aerial arts, “Kinekt” tells a story all too familiar to modern families: how to maintain a human connection in the digital age. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Ethel M Holiday Cactus Garden
The Pinball Hall of Fame in Las Vegas
The Pinball Hall of Fame was created by Tim Arnold and opened in 2006. (Mat Luschek/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Jump! The Ultimate Dog Show at Springs Preserve in Las Vegas
Trainer Lou “Mack” McCammon guides several rescue dogs through a series of tricks and jumps two shows a day weekends through December at the Springs Preserve in Las Vegas. (K.M. Cannon/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Buddy V - Sep 21 Confidante
Famous Infinity Mirror Room is open in Las Vegas
Yayoi Kusama's "Aftermath of Obliteration of Infinity" mirror room is open at the Bellagio in Las Vegas (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Glittering Lights dazzles Las Vegas
The Glittering Lights holiday display is shining at the Las Vegas Motor Speedway. (Mat Luschek/ Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Skybar at Waldorf Astoria lets you sip your way through Las Vegas history
Skybar At Waldorf Astoria Lets You Sip Your Way Through Las Vegas History (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Stan Lee in Las Vegas for Madame Tussauds unveiling
Stan Lee Las Vegas speaks with the Review-Journal's Chris Lawrence about his love for his fans and shared universes. (Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Ultimate Belgium Waffle Sundae at Lavo
Lavo at the Palazzo serves a 16-scoop ice cream sundae that costs $800. (Rochelle Ricahrds, Janna Karel/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
A New Zip Line Is Opening On The Las Vegas Strip
A New Zip Line Is Opening On The Las Vegas Strip (Janna Karel lLas Vegas Review-Journal)
You'll need a keen eye to find this secret bar on the Las Vegas Strip
You'll need a keen eye to find this secret bar on the Las Vegas Strip (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
"The Lion King" roars into Las Vegas
New music club 172 brings loud luxury to Las Vegas
New music venue at the Rio brings rock ’n’ roll and food together at intimate club. K.M. Cannon/Las Vegas Review-Journal
Fans fear for Zak Bagans’ safety in Las Vegas Halloween TV special
Fly Linq zip line time lapse
Fly Linq zip line timelapse
News Headlines
Add Event
Home Front Page Footer Listing
You May Like

You May Like