Food does all the talking at downtown’s Therapy

Therapy, 518 E. Fremont St., offers a mix of gastro-lounge and speakeasy vibe in downtown Las Vegas, coupled with attentive service and large-plate tapas that will satisfy numerous palates.

The exposed, vaulted ceiling shows off the building's history with metal ductwork and large, stained beams overhead, stretching to the back where more seating is available in the loft. More history is reflected in the interior's exposed brick walls. Some of the flooring and lighting is new, but it all ties together, adding tasteful touches and ambience to one of Fremont's older locations, which previously housed a dollar store.

On a recent visit, we didn't sample any libations from the bar, but it has an extensive menu, including 40 to 50 craft and draft beers and signature cocktails such as The Smash! with Four Roses Bourbon, blackberries, fresh mint and sweetened lime, and the Deal Maker with Hana Gin, Luxardo Maraschino, Fructations grapefruit, fresh lime and lemon-lime soda. Sangria is house made and comes in choices of Classic Red, Elder-Melon or Berry Good.

The menu items we selected were charred kale with bacon, two types of beets and an over-easy egg on top; roasted curry cauliflower with almonds and dates; and a type of bruschetta consisting of eggplant, tomato and cheese.

The bruschetta and kale were spot-on, though the latter was heavy in salt, and the cauliflower was indeed tasty, though the curry flavor was a bit overpowering.

Lunch is served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and includes sandwich choices of The Big Sexy, a Wagyu beef burger topped with Boston bibb lettuce, marinated tomato, Brie and scallion mayo; Therapy BLT with apple wood smoked bacon, tomato jam and Boston bibb lettuce on a toasted croissant with black pepper house chips; and Scottish salmon topped with fine herb pesto, asparagus and confit cherry tomato.

"Knife and Fork" choices include chicken meatballs with jalapeno-cilantro pesto; oxtail empanadas with harissa lime creme fraiche; hangar steak tartar; chicken and red velvet waffle sliders with red pepper remoulade slaw; and shrimp scampi with garlic-marinated gulf shrimp in a white wine sauce, served with grilled toast.

The menu also has an interesting selection of starters, or "Bites," as they are called here: popcorn with fried paprika peanuts and maple candied bacon; In the Gnudi, which is baked ricotta with truffle honey, fig jam, roasted almonds and cranberry and walnut crostini; shrimp ceviche with tomato lime; and pretzel bread served with spicy beer mustard and sea salt butter.

Dinner menu choices include crispy fried pig ears with truffle honey mustard, and Kurobuta bone-in pork with grilled peach compote, mustard mashed potatoes and pork jus.

The place is worth another visit, as the menu is extensive, and the desserts looked divine, with choices including Cast Iron Smores with toasted mallows bacon; crumbled carrot cake; and Pure Decadence, a three-layer chocolate cake.

Depending on how many small plates you order, plan on paying around $30 per person, more if you order cocktails.

Therapy is open from 11 a.m. to midnight Sunday through Wednesday and 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Thursday through Saturday. Visit therapylv.com or call 702-912-1622.