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Each week Neon spotlights a different cuisine in the Dining Guide, with ethnic restaurants this week. Restaurants are rated on a letter-grade scale, from A to F. Opinions by R-J critic Heidi Knapp Rinella (H.K.R.) are indicated by initials. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees $10 to $20; $$$ = entrees $20 to $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.
BAVARIAN CASTLE
10890 S. Eastern Ave.; 702-778-2800
The Bavarian Castle is a welcome addition to our German-restaurant-starved valley, and even if the place isn’t quite perfect, its charm more than makes up for that. We liked the lentil soup, sauerbraten, Vienna-style pork cutlet and beer bratwurst and absolutely loved the apple strudel. (9/19/14 H.K.R.)
Overall: B+
$$
BERTOLUCCI BRAZILIAN STEAKHOUSE
2895 N. Green Valley Parkway, Henderson; 702-458-0080
Bertolucci doesn’t have the pizzazz of some of the similarly formatted chain operations in the tourism corridor, but it makes up for it with an extended hot (and cold) buffet and tons of personal service. Our pork rib was extremely dry, but we liked the pork tenderloin wrapped in bacon, marinated flank steak, sirloin, filet mignon and roast lamb, as well as the fried bananas, fried cheese balls, polenta, Feijoada and flan. (1/31/14 H.K.R.)
Overall: B+
$$$
CAFE BERLIN
4850 W. Sunset Road; 702-875-4605
Although it seems natural we won’t make comparisons between Cafe Berlin and other once-and-future local German restaurants. This one is somewhat sparsely decorated and has a somewhat minimalist menu, but what’s there is mostly satisfying to lovers of all things Teutonic. We liked the pretzel with Obazter; the Wurstplatte with its authentic bratwurst, knockwurst and bockwurst, a slightly crispy Jaegerschnitzel; spaetzle; and apfelstrudel. (7/20/12 H.K.R.)
Overall: B+
$$
THE COMMISSARY
206 N. Third St.; 702-719-5311
The Commissary — an expansive space with a coffee cafe, bar and restaurant — has a fun urban vibe, and the restaurant part of the equation serves good, mostly Latin-influenced food. The guacamole was excellent, as was a special Island Burger, and the Baja Fish Torta, though a bit strong here and there, reflected the restaurant’s potential. (7/18/14 H.K.R.)
Overall: B+
$$
CORNISH PASTY CO.
953 E. Sahara Ave.; 702-862-4538
Pasties — one of the most sought-after regional foods, if reader mail is any indication — come to Las Vegas by way of Phoenix, by way of Cornwall, at this little spot in the Commercial Center. While a cup of cream of leek, potato and Stilton soup was on the salty side, the Peppered Steak and Royale with Cheese pasties were very nicely executed, and we also liked the Oven Chips and Banoffee Pie. (7/4/14 H.K.R.)
Overall: B+
$
THE GREAT GREEK
1275 W. Warm Springs Road, Henderson; 702-547-2377
The Great Greek is a mom-and-pop with all of the personalized service that implies as well as top-notch gyros, the pillowy pita overflowing with meat and graced with a decorative swath of feta cheese, a whole pepperoncini perched atop. We also loved the hummus, Greek salad, souvlaki and baklava. (3/29/13 H.K.R.)
Overall: A-
$
INDIA MASALA BAR &GRILL
1040 E. Flamingo Road; 702-431-8313
Service was a little laggy at India Masala — we kind of felt like they were stuck in lunchtime-buffet mode — but we really liked the place for its gorgeous atmosphere and very good food that included tandoori chicken, lamb Madras curry and the cilantro-mint and tamarind chutneys served with the better-than-average pappadum. (3/15/13 H.K.R.)
Overall: B+
$$
JALEO
The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, 3708 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 702-698-7950
Jose Andres is considered the father of the tapas movement in the United States, making a splash with them on the East Coast, but while he was somewhat late to Las Vegas, his tapas, showing a fine balance between the classic and the innovative, are proof he deserves exalted status. We loved them all: a cone of La Serena cheese and quince paste, pan con tomate with Manchego, carne asada with poquillo pepper confit, chorizo wrapped with potato, dates wrapped with bacon, grilled asparagus with Romesco sauce and — most spectacularly — flan, and olives stuffed with anchovy and piquillo with Ferran Adria liquid olives. (2/3/12 H.K.R.)
Overall: A
$$$
JERUSALEM GRILL
4825 W. Flamingo Road; 702-341-5555
It’s all kosher at the Jerusalem Grill but even if you’re not, you may well enjoy it because the food is fabulous. That would include the complimentary cumin-laced warm garbanzos and cold marinated vegetables served before the main event, plus such innovative dishes as hummus centered with a mound of sauteed mushrooms and onions and such classic ones as a falafel platter and probably the best shawarma we’ve had anywhere. (5/3/13 H.K.R.)
Overall: A
$$
LAS PAPUSAS
641 N. Stephanie St., Henderson; 702-450-0600 (and four other locations in the valley)
As the name indicates Las Papusas is a Salvadoran restaurant, and while it offers other things on its menu we thought the Salvadoran dishes were by far the best. They included two papusas, one with beans, cheese and pork, the other with herbs and cheese, both with the requisite cabbage slaw and thin tomato salsa, as well as truly superlative fried plantains with sour cream. (7/25/14 H.K.R.)
Overall: B
$
MAD GREEK CAFE
8565 W. Sahara Ave.; 702-242-7669
If, like us, your only acquaintance with The Mad Greek was via the drive-through at the location in Baker, Calif., you might be surprised at the great quality of the food (not to mention large portions, and reasonable prices) of this Las Vegas outlet. We loved the saganaki, the pork gyro and the combo plate that included moussaka, pasticchio, dolmathes, kebabs, beef and lamb gyro meat and more.(4/11/14 H.K.R.)
Overall: A
$$
SULTAN’S GRILL
1910 Village Center Circle; 702-838-3221
Sultan’s Grill was somewhat of a mixed bag, with falafel that was dry and flavorless and a promising parsley-and-scallion green hummus that was a pasty disappointment. Those were balanced, though, by really good shawarma — carefully seasoned, well marinated and tender and juicy — and solid red and classic versions of hummus, and by friendly service and a clean and sleek, if somewhat plain, interior. (5/4/12 H.K.R.)
Overall: B-
$
VIA BRASIL STEAKHOUSE
1225 S. Fort Apache Road; 702-804-1400
Signature dishes: Churrascaria-style meats, salad/food bar.
