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Each week Neon spotlights a different cuisine in the Dining Guide, with New American restaurants this week. Restaurants are rated on a letter-grade scale, from A to F. Opinions by R-J critic Heidi Knapp Rinella (H.K.R.) are indicated by initials. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10, $$ = entrees $10 to $20, $$$ = entrees $20 to $30 and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.
DOUBLE HELIX WINE &WHISKEY LOUNGE
Town Square, 6605 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 702-735-9463
I was mostly confused by the menu at Double Helix, which is pretty much limited to small plates but isn’t extensive enough to allow for the creation of a tapaslike feast. On the other hand, the place is a cozy spot for a glass of wine before or after a movie right across the street, and we liked our arancini, Brie in a Blanket and the cleverly named Shrimp Hailing a Cab. (1/20/12 H.K.R.)
Overall: B
$$
EMBERS
740 S. Rampart Blvd.; 702-778-2160
The crowds that were dining at Boca Park on the evening of our visit weren’t dining at Embers, which was a shame, because this place has quite a bit going for it. That includes starters of ahi tuna and bacon-wrapped dates, entrees of miso salmon, a grilled steak salad and a slow-roasted tri-tip, and a rich, fudgy dessert. (6/8/12 H.K.R.)
Overall: A-
$$
FLEUR
Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 702-632-7200
Small plates — aka tapas — have found popularity in Las Vegas in large part because of the flexibility they allow and the camaraderie they engender, and at Fleur they’re done particularly well. We found the Heirloom Gazpacho with Watermelon Pop Rocks to be full of both whimsy and flavor, and also liked the pan con tamate, goat cheese flambe and flat-iron chimmichurri, although the In the Shower Mac and Cheese needed more assertive cheese flavor, less assertive lobster flavor. (10/26/12 H.K.R.)
Overall: A-
$$$
HONEY SALT
1031 S. Rampart Blvd.; 702-445-6100
One of the things we liked most about Honey Salt was the flexibility of a menu that would enable one of us to have a pizza Margherita, the other a lamb Porterhouse — and a kitchen with the skills to prepare both of them flawlessly. We also liked My Wife’s Favorite Salad, with its arugula, frisee, duck confit, pomegranate seeds, pine nuts and poached egg, and the homey goodness of the Brown Bag Apple Pie. (5/31/13 H.K.R.)
Overall: A-
$$$
MADE L.V.
Tivoli Village, 450 S. Rampart Blvd.; 702-722-2000
Elizabeth Blau and Kim Canteenwalla’s new restaurant is just as delightful as, in truth, we would expect from such perfectionists, but we weren’t prepared for the full-on truffle aroma that presaged the Black Truffle Cheese Fondue with house-made potato crisps. We also loved the black mission figs, Smoked KC Style BBQ Ribs, shrimp-and-kale-stuffed brook trout, eggplant “pastrami” and Loaded S’mores Nachos. (11/7/14 H.K.R.)
Overall: A
$$
MOZEN BISTRO
Mandarin Oriental, 3752 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 888-881-9367
The Mandarin Oriental is, by definition, both exclusive and expensive, but Mozen Bistro is not only approachable for a large swath of the populace, it’s excellent on all levels. Worthy of note: the Five Spice Pork Belly, Hong Kong Grouper, Thai Green Curry and Cherry Cordial Cloche. (5/9/14 H.K.R.)
Overall: A
$$$
PICASSO
Bellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 702-693-8865
Signature dishes: warm quail salad, sauteed medallions of fallow deer.
Rx BOILER ROOM
Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 702-632-7200
Bacon-wrapped bacon is the kind of whimsical dish you might expect to find in a restaurant with an equally whimsical steampunk theme; what makes this Rick Moonen spot special is the high quality across the board. In addition to the aforementioned dish, the Buffalo Fried Oysters, Moonen Tater Tots, Shellfish Shepherd’s Pie and tiramisu showed that whimsy needn’t get in the way of quality. (6/20/14 H.K.R.)
Overall: A
$$$
TODD’S UNIQUE DINING
4350 E. Sunset Road, Henderson; 702-259-8633
Todd’s is one of the few remaining gourmet rooms in the suburbs and it’s doing a fine job of upholding the tradition, with a steady stream of regulars attesting to that. We liked the classic goat cheese wontons with raspberry sauce, beet salad, beef short ribs with jalapeno-flecked mashed potatoes and pork tenderloin with stuffing. (1/18/13 H.K.R.)
Overall: A
$$$
VIC’S NEW AMERICAN CUISINE
2450 Hampton Road, Henderson; 702-522-7200
The short ribs at Vic’s were so good as to be truly memorable, and even better because they were accompanied by parsnip puree and crispy potato strings. And the goodness didn’t end there; we also liked the novel Caramel Apple Pork Chop, which wasn’t as sweet as it sounds, and the slightly — slightly — dry Meatloaf Spring Rolls, another creative idea. (11/1/13 H.K.R.)
Overall: A-
$$$
