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MRKT Sea & Land rejects stodgy steakhouse image

There's something to be said for the classic, traditional steakhouse. But, at MRKT Sea & Land at Aliante Station, there's also much to be said about spicing up that standard steakhouse paradigm with a few chic touches.

Start with the room itself, which "breaks away from what I'd call the staunch, old-school steakhouse," with varied shades of green, wrought iron, dark brown woods and "a very comfortable feeling," said J.R. DeGan, the restaurant's executive chef.

This traditional-but-upscale vibe extends, too, to the restaurant's menu, which augments steakhouse classics -- filets mignon ($32), veal chops ($34) and porterhouses ($37), for instance -- with a few less-typical additions.

Chief among them: Seafood dishes beyond the basic surf-and-turf and shrimp cocktail configurations. Both are available, of course -- surf and turf at market price and shrimp cocktail at $12 -- but MRKT also offers such entrees as pan-seared ahi tuna ($25) and pan roast ($22).

"The thing that surprised me is that the amount of fish we're selling here is quite substantial," DeGan says.

Then, in addition to the usual roster of martinis, Manhattans and other classic steakhouse libations, MRKT has a wine list featuring nearly 5,000 bottles, as well as about 20 wines available by the glass.

MRKT Sea & Land seats 200, DeGan says, and reservations aren't required but are recommended.

The restaurant is open from 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Starters: Pan-seared ahi tuna, $13; calamari, $9; jumbo lump crab cocktail, $14

Soups and salads: French onion soup, $7; butternut squash soup, $6; MRKT chop salad, $9; blue nut salad, $10; spinach with crisp pancetta, $8

Entrees: Pan-seared bone-in rib-eye, $31; Colorado rack of lamb, $37; MRKT Brick House chicken, $21

Signature dishes: Jumbo crab cakes, $13; macaroni and cheese with truffles, $7

Desserts: Baked-to-order brownies, $7; fried-to-order mini sugar doughnuts, $7

Information: 692-7777

 

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