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Something for all tastes at Veloce Cibo

It may be easier to represent the scope of the eclecticism at Veloce Cibo in the M Resort by describing the cuisines it doesn't serve. Hungarian, for instance.

"No, actually, we do that, too," says executive chef Kevin Oakes. "We do goulash specials sometimes."

Veloce Cibo (Italian for "velocity in food") is half sushi, half anything else you can think of -- including Italian pastas, American steaks and Spanish tapas.

The addition of five specials, which change every night, further widens an already broad spectrum.

"We do things like foie gras," says Oakes, formerly Bellagio's executive chef of in-room dining for 10 years. "Last night, I did a macadamia nut diver scallop."

Even if it's not on the menu, Oakes says he'll do it.

"If I have the resources available to me, I will oblige any request," he says. "If not, I can run downstairs to Marinelli's or Terzetto and retrieve whatever I need to prepare it."

Complementing all there is to eat is all there is to see. Veloce Cibo's 16th-floor wall window affords all 284 seats a Strip view.

The M Resort is built 400 feet higher than Mandalay Bay, Oakes says, "so even on the bottom floor, you have a spectacular view. But we're on the top floor."

Hours are from 5 to 11 p.m. weekdays, 5 p.m to 1 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays at 12300 Las Vegas Blvd. South. Reservations are required.

Signature dish: Tomato and mozzarella salad, $11

Starters: Chicken lettuce wrap, $9; crab cakes, $12; mini Kobe sliders, $12; prosciutto with sweet melons and figs, $16; carpaccio, $14; salt and pepper popcorn shrimp, $14

Entrees: Chilean sea bass, $29; braised short ribs, $24; pumpkin and butternut squash ravioli, $16; cedar plank salmon, $28; grilled veal chop, $36; baked ziti, $19

Desserts: Tiramisu, $7.50; white chocolate cheesecake, $7.50; berry martini, $7.50

Information: 797-1400

By COREY LEVITAN

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