Turmeric’s creative touches elevate the Indian flavors

When Turmeric Flavors of India opened downtown last fall, it was with the stated intention of doing things a little differently; it’s even reflected in the restaurant’s motto, “Indian cuisine elevated.” That mission has been met, on numerous fronts.

There’s the middle-of-the-action location on Fremont Street, across from the Downtown Container Park. There’s the open-to-the-street windows in the front of the bar area, and the rooftop nightclub. There’s the sleek, non-traditional decor with pistachio-colored banquettes, plum walls, cinnamon floors and granite tables. And while there are some family-style dishes on the menu as a concession to traditionalists (butter chicken, chicken tikka masala, biryanis), there are numerous choices plated like conventional entrees, many of them quite creative.

Consider the starter of grilled eggplant ($10). What elevates the dish is a crisp coating of peanuts and sesame, which mellowed out the somewhat assertive flavor of the eggplant. It was slightly spicy and so was the smear of tamarind chutney, but they were balanced by the cool, creamy neutrality of a mound of labne, also known as hung yogurt and far more at home in Middle Eastern cuisine than Indian.

Border-bending also was evident in the masala shrimp ($10). The largish, just-firm-enough crustaceans had been traditionally seasoned but were served in a far-from-conventional filo basket, a smear of mango-tamarind chutney decorating the plate along with a little pile of greens.

On the other hand, garlic naan ($4) was about as traditional as it gets, characteristically light and crisp and sprinkled with lots of garlic.

Spinach dumplings ($19) sounded likewise traditional — “spinach-coated paneer” — but instead of the customary cubes of house-made cheese, they were actual dumplings, the paneer mixed with seeds and seasonings and served on a pond of mild tomato-ginger sauce, with a little top hat of yellow rice and a sauteed melange of fresh vegetables including peas, carrots, string beans, broccoli and red pepper.”

The “corn sauce” served on the side with the lamb rack ($25) provided a bit of a detour; it was more of a salsa, with a prodigious kick. Lemon rice with this one, too. But the lamb chops, which should have been delicate and succulent, were terribly overcooked. With medium-rare lamb the norm these days, they were disappointing.

Rice with entrees is a rarity in Indian restaurants and another way in which Turmeric is a little different.

Service was standard, with periodic updates from the servers and frequent refilling of water glasses.

One caveat is that the building is a little offbeat. It’s at Fremont and Seventh streets, on the property of the City Center Motel. The entry is somewhat confusing; you go in the door and walk along a glass wall enclosing the bar before ending up at a hostess station that’s not clearly marked. The parking is a little confusing as well; there’s plenty on the streets, at meters, but while the City Center’s lot is posted with signs saying it’s for motel guests only, a server said it is available to restaurant guests.

But the small bit of navigation that’s required is worth the effort, because Turmeric’s creative touches do elevate the flavors of India above those of its brethren.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at Hrinella@reviewjournal.com or 702-383-0474. Follow @HKRinella on Twitter.

ad-high_impact_4
Entertainment
Famous Infinity Mirror Room is open in Las Vegas
Yayoi Kusama's "Aftermath of Obliteration of Infinity" mirror room is open at the Bellagio in Las Vegas (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Glittering Lights dazzles Las Vegas
The Glittering Lights holiday display is shining at the Las Vegas Motor Speedway. (Mat Luschek/ Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Skybar at Waldorf Astoria lets you sip your way through Las Vegas history
Skybar At Waldorf Astoria Lets You Sip Your Way Through Las Vegas History (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Stan Lee in Las Vegas for Madame Tussauds unveiling
Stan Lee Las Vegas speaks with the Review-Journal's Chris Lawrence about his love for his fans and shared universes. (Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Ultimate Belgium Waffle Sundae at Lavo
Lavo at the Palazzo serves a 16-scoop ice cream sundae that costs $800. (Rochelle Ricahrds, Janna Karel/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
A New Zip Line Is Opening On The Las Vegas Strip
A New Zip Line Is Opening On The Las Vegas Strip (Janna Karel lLas Vegas Review-Journal)
You'll need a keen eye to find this secret bar on the Las Vegas Strip
You'll need a keen eye to find this secret bar on the Las Vegas Strip (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
"The Lion King" roars into Las Vegas
New music club 172 brings loud luxury to Las Vegas
New music venue at the Rio brings rock ’n’ roll and food together at intimate club. K.M. Cannon/Las Vegas Review-Journal
Fans fear for Zak Bagans’ safety in Las Vegas Halloween TV special
Fly Linq zip line time lapse
Fly Linq zip line timelapse
Shaq opens Las Vegas restaurant, Big Chicken
Shaq opens Las Vegas restaurant, Big Chicken
Robert Deniro And Chef Nobu Talk About The Success Of Nobu
Robert Deniro And Chef Nobu Talk About The Success Of Nobu (Al Mancini Las Vegas Review-journal)
Nevada Ballet Theatre rehearses for "Dracula" at The Smith Center
Nevada Ballet Theatre rehearses for "Dracula" at The Smith Center (Janna Karel/ Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Downtown Summerlin hosts its annual Festival of Arts
People crowd to Downtown Summerlin for the 23rd annual Summerlin Festival of Arts in Las Vegas, Sunday, Oct. 14, 2018. (Caroline Brehman/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Bellagio, MGM Resorts International’s luxury hotel turns 20
The more than 3,000-room Bellagio hotel is situated on the site of the former Dunes Hotel. The Dunes was imploded in 1993, and construction of the Bellagio started in 1996. It cost $1.6 billion to build, making it the most expensive hotel in the world at the time. The Bellagio was former Wynn Resorts Ltd. Chairman and CEO Steve Wynn’s second major casino on the Strip after The Mirage. MGM Resorts International acquired the property from Steve Wynn in 2000. (Tara Mack/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Recycled Art and Cute Dogs at Summerlin Festival Of Arts
Recycled Art, Cute Dogs Abound At Summerlin Festival Of Arts (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Bellagio Patisserie Creates Life-size Sculpture Of 20th Anniversary Of Cirque Du Soleil Show
Bellagio Patisserie Creates Life-size Sculpture Of 20th Anniversary Of Cirque Du Soleil Show (Janna Karel/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
10 Most Iconic Moments At The Bellagio Fountains
10 Most Iconic Moments At The Bellagio Fountains (Janna Karel/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Jason Aldean talks about the possibility of a Las Vegas residency
Country superstar Jason Aldean discusses his feelings about playing in Las Vegas and says he'd be interested in a Las Vegas residency when the time is right at the iHeart Radio Music Festival in Las Vegas on September 21, 2018.(John Katsilometes/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Block 16 Urban Food Hall Serves Favorite Foods From Across The US
Block 16 Urban Food Hall Serves Favorite Foods From Across The US (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Benny the Skating Dog could be the next Golden Knights on-ice entertainment
Benny the Skating Dog could be the next Golden Knights on-ice entertainment (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Who To Watch At Life Is Beautiful
Life Is Beautiful Setup
Workers preparing Fremont street for this weekend's Life is Beautiful festival, on Wednesday, September 19, 2018. Mat Luschek/Las Vegas Review-Journal
The 46th annual Greek Food Festival will feed 25,000 people in Las Vegas
Madame Tussauds Has The Newest VR Experience On The Strip
Madame Tussauds Has The Newest VR Experience On The Strip. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Zia Records Move
Zias Records is moving from its Sahara Avenue and Arville Street location to a bigger store. (Mat Luscheck/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Students At The International Contortion Convention In Las Vegas Learn How To Bend And Twist Their Bodies
Students At The International Contortion Convention In Las Vegas Learn How To Bend And Twist Their Bodies. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Video from Fertitta wedding Sep. 1
video from @wedstagrams of Fertitta wedding at Red Rock Resort
You Can Get Vegan Unicorn Toast In Downtown Las Vegas
You Can Get Vegan Unicorn Toast In Downtown Las Vegas (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
TOP NEWS
News Headlines
Add Event
Home Front Page Footer Listing
Circular
You May Like

You May Like